cerebral museum

Tren a Sóller

Posted in Uncategorized by Cassandra on October 7, 2009

Sunday night in Palma I wandered down toward the shore. I walked past the lit up cathedral, parked like a huge ship right on the shore. A man asked me, “what’s up? you smokin’ tonight?”

Sóller, Mallorca, Spain

I went to a jazz show. A man got up from the crowd and started playing. So good, that was the best part. I had a glass of perfect red wine then the smoke started to sting my eyes so I left.

That same night I went to bed and woke up a few hours later just as the thunder started to drum. Couldn’t get back to sleep, so I waited for the stores to open and bought an umbrella. I walked up to the train station to buy a ticket for Sóller.

View from the train car

View from the train car

I realized how much I love traveling by train. The ride was almost two hours and it poured almost the entire time, had a car to myself.

100 year old tracks and trains

100 year old tracks and trains

The countryside in Mallorca is filled with ranches. Saw a lot of sheep, chickens, horses.

Slowed to a stop at this vista. The acoustics of the cliff wall behind the tracks amplified the sound of the kids in the schoolyards laughing and church bells and a few horses.

Slowed to a stop at this vista. The acoustics of the cliff wall behind the tracks amplified the sound of the kids in the schoolyards laughing and church bells and a few horses.

Finally the train rolled into Sóller.

I walked 5km to the port in the rain, then took a trolley back after having a thin little funny pizza and some very cheap and very good white wine from another of the islands.

finally made it to the shore

finally made it to the shore

deluge

deluge

dinner

dinner

Got back to Palma on the last train of the night. Next day was Joan Miró’s museum/foundation/studio/house, which was definitely the highlight. Photos soon.

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Mallorca

Posted in Uncategorized by Cassandra on October 2, 2009

Took a four day trip to Mallorca.

Mallorca, Spain

There, they speak Mallorquin Catalan, a dialect of a dialect of Castillian Spanish which is nearly completely unintelligible to me. I can read Catalan pretty well, but gave up on understanding it spoken.

Bright but hazy during the descent.

Thought this might be Gaudí, but turns out Francesc Roca and Guillem Reynés are responsible for the design.

Thought this might be Gaudí, but turns out Francesc Roca and Guillem Reynés are responsible for the design.

This building was in the Plaza Mercat. Rested here for some time while wandering toward the hotel.

Turn of the century heavy handed Catalan design.

Turn of the century heavy handed Catalan design.

80% of Mallorca’s economy is supported by tourism. No surprise that Ibiza is even worse. Everyone thought I was German or Swedish, they say my Spanish accent isn’t very American. News to me.

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Mallorca is the biggest of the Balearic Islands. Hard to explain the differences between there and the mainland, but safe to say everything is much slower. Was glad I packed a couple of books.

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someone was practicing violin inside.

One of them was a biography on Miró, whose work has always stolen my attention in museums. Turns out he had a lot of ties to Mallorca, and the Miró Foundation sits just outside the capital. I’ll have to post some photos later, it was incredible.

The streets and walkways are narrow, some more than others.

I had to duck through many a doorway, now I know what my father must always feel like. I went to visit a friend in Portocolom (more later) and there it was even more pronounced. I stayed in a beautiful little hostel run by two angry but pleasant old men. Awoke the first morning at 5AM to pounding sheets of rain, thunder and lightning. There is not much I love more than thunderstorms.

deluge

deluge

I didn’t go back to sleep. My seaside plans were obviously shot, so I wrapped my sarong around my neck as a scarf and headed out.

On my way down to the train station (more later from Sóller). The storm lasted the entire weekend, breaking just before I left. Thoroughly enjoyable trip, I’d like to go back and do some rock climbing.

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